With city names like Nouakchott and Nouadhibou, I quickly realized this place is a cultural surprise fest. The country doesn't fit nice and neat categories. It's one of the many things I love about this land and its people.
- It's one of the most off-the-grid countries on the planet. Many Americans have never heard of it. It rarely pops up in global news.
- Many Arabs know that the country is famous for its love of poetry. It is called the Land of a Thousand Poets with good reason.
- It has a large Arab population but has deep ties to the Berber tribes of the deep Sahara Desert (Algeria, Southern Morocco, Mali).
- It's part of the Middle East Arab world with strong shared history with Moroccan Sufi brotherhoods.
- It's an intensely Muslim society, and fiercely protective of it's culture, heritage, and faith.
- In the past, they were also known for their singular xenophobia -- a strong distrust of foreigners. They are much more open now. If you speak Arabic, you will discover their incredible hospitality, generosity, and largess.
- In addition to their Arab Bithany (their word for white skinned Arab), there is an equally large population of black skinned people groups: the Fulani, Soninke, and Wolof.
- There are large swaths of barren sand but also has one of the richest offshore fishing grounds in the world.
- It's incredibly dusty with major air pollution two-thirds of the year. Many years ago, the international airport was shut down for six weeks due to sand storms.
- It's one of the most politically stable nations in the Sahel band and West Africa region.
- As an avid fisherman, I've never experienced better fishing or better seafood than in the northern city and fishing capital, Nouadhibou. The grilled sea trout is to die for. The Kurbine fish is one of the cheapest grilled fish you can buy in the local fish market. Incredibly good!
- This is a three whiskey shot tea culture. (Alcohol is strictly forbidden to citizens.) Many of the tea glasses have a #8 (whiskey shot glass) written on the bottom of the glass. Every tea sitting involves 3 rounds of tea. After the 2nd shot, a guest may leave if urgent meetings call them away. After the 3rd glass is served, the guests know it's time to say goodbye and move on! In the cities, tea is served with fresh aromatic mint leaf and lots of foam on the top.
- My Mauritanian friends say that if families can do it, they try to have: (1) one son in religious leadership, (2) one in the military, and (3) one in commerce. These are the three pillars or movers in the society. The other prime social movers are the roughly five major clans or large families who quietly exert enormous influence in the country.
Unusual Spots
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Banc d'Arguin -- accessible by four-wheel only, a beach side national park 100 kilometers south of Nouadhibou. Bring everything with you -- water, food. They have large tents for shade, but that's it. It's a fantastic fishing spot. Mackerel and tuna fish runs are common. Orcas come by fairly often as well. The swimming is pristine, too.
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Chinguetti -- German and French adventure tourists fly in every year to the spiritual capital of the country. There are centuries old libraries, lovely palm tree filled oasis camp sites, it's a true Sahara desert experience.
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Beach Side Camping -- because the Atlantic coastline is long, nearby, and private, beach side camping with a few other families or friends just a few kilometers up from the capital city is a special treat.
If you know a little Arabic and are respectful of their traditions and culture, you will be invited to drink a lot of tea during your visit. Enjoy!